By Ashish Joshi www.guardian.co.uk
Visit now…
The opening of the Dubai Metro in September has revolutionised Dubai’s transport network. Not all the stations are open yet but the Metro, the world’s longest driverless system, does link opposite ends of the Emirate, making it simple to explore. Of course, winter is a great time to visit Dubai.
The daytime temperatures still peak near 35C but, because summer is over, all the city’s best outdoor attractions have reopened; don’t miss the courtyards and narrow alleyways around Al Bastakiya, cluttered with boutiques and art galleries.
Check in…
The global downturn means cheap, no-frills hotels are mushrooming across the city. For great value check out the smaller independent hotels in Bur Dubai and Deira, and haggle hard for the best rates. The Tamarind Hotel (00 971 4 226 5944) is a budget hotel in Deira. It’s right in the thick of it and will not be to everyone’s taste, but doubles start at just £33. For the more typical five-star view of Dubai, the Address (00 971 4 436 8888; theaddress.com) is currently one of the hottest hotels, with a great selection of bars and restaurants and breathtaking views. Doubles from £245.
Get your bearings…
Dubai is easy to navigate. It is a long straight strip that runs from Sharjah to Abu Dhabi with the Sheikh Zayed Road – a 12-lane super-highway – running right through the centre. Old Dubai, or at least the bit that hasn’t just been built in the past 10 minutes, straddles the Creek. This waterway splits Dubai in two: Bur Dubai and Deira. This is the heart of Dubai, home to real people with real jobs. This part of Dubai feels, smells and sounds more like Mumbai or Karachi.
Grab a snack…
Eat where the locals eat: walk around the Satwa District and along Al Dhiyafa Street, which is lined with Lebanese cafes that serve fabulous, fresh meze. For eating on the go, opt for some freshly baked bread straight out of the oven of the Pars Iranian Kitchen (00 971 4 398 4000) on Al Diyafa Street in Satwa.
Bag a bargain…
Shopping is a national obsession and the newly opened Dubai Mall is the world’s largest. The only traditional-style souks are the spice market and the gold bazaar, but it’s worth checking to see if your trip coincides with Dubai’s only flea market (dubai-fleamarket.com), held on Saturdays twice a month. The market is held in two parks, so you can make a morning of it, and there are genuine bargains to be had. One source of treasure not on the tourist radar is the Antique Museum (Al Quoz Industrial Estate, unsignposted, first right before Kanoo building and then right again). It isn’t a museum and it doesn’t sell antiques – it’s a huge warehouse stuffed with assorted curios and oddities. There’s plenty of tourist tat but dig deep and you could unearth a real gem. The owners will be offended if you don’t haggle.
Dine like a local…
Restaurants serving good Emirati food are rare. The biggest community in Dubai is from the Indian sub-continent – and the best Pakistani food in the city is served at Ravis restaurant on Satwa Road. This unassuming diner is an institution, a no-frills canteen that’s packed with locals, who say the kebabs and curry served here are among the best you will find outside Pakistan. If you’re after the restaurant of the moment, reserve a table at Okku (00 971 4 501 8777; okkudubai.com), a top-notch Japanese on Sheikh Zayed Road. A perennial favourite is Buddha Bar at The Grosvenor in Dubai Marina (00 971 4 399 8888; buddha-bar.com) although the music is loud and the lighting is dim, so it is not the best choice if you actually want to talk over dinner.
Cocktail hour…
Current favourite is Neos on the 63rd floor of the Address (as before), which has awesome views of the city. Now the mercury is slipping downwards, Dubai’s outdoor venues come into their own. 360 at Jumeirah Beach (00 971 4 348 0000; jumeirah.com) is always popular, not least for the shisha (water pipe) lounges, where you can kick back and gaze at the stars. Dubai’s most popular beach bar, Barasti on Al-Soufah Road, is throbbing again with the city’s ex-pat crowd: Ibiza meets Blackpool, with added Middle Eastern spice.
A lazy Sunday…
There are miles of pristine coastline along the Gulf, much of it protected to stop the environmental damage caused by overconstruction. Dugongs and turtles breed in the area. One of the best ways to explore is to hire a boat. It doesn’t have to be an expensive yacht – instead negotiate a price with a local owner and arrange a day-long visit to some shoreline away from Dubai city. Numbers for boats for hire can be found in local listings magazines, or take a stroll along the creek waterfront, find a boat owner and strike a deal.
Don’t leave without…
A long lingering look at Dubai from aboard an abra (water taxi). Jump on one of these at the abra station along the creek from either the Bur Dubai or the Deira side; the ride costs less than 25p so try for a longer route and take a trip around dusk for a beautiful sunset. Dubai started life as a tiny pearl-diving village, and although that heritage has been all but lost, an abra ride with the locals is the nearest connection with that not-so-distant past.
Dine like a local…
Restaurants serving good Emirati food are rare. The biggest community in Dubai is from the Indian sub-continent – and the best Pakistani food in the city is served at Ravis restaurant on Satwa Road. This unassuming diner is an institution, a no-frills canteen that’s packed with locals, who say the kebabs and curry served here are among the best you will find outside Pakistan. If you’re after the restaurant of the moment, reserve a table at Okku (00 971 4 501 8777; okkudubai.com), a top-notch Japanese on Sheikh Zayed Road. A perennial favourite is Buddha Bar at The Grosvenor in Dubai Marina (00 971 4 399 8888; buddha-bar.com) although the music is loud and the lighting is dim, so it is not the best choice if you actually want to talk over dinner.
Cocktail hour…
Current favourite is Neos on the 63rd floor of the Address (as before), which has awesome views of the city. Now the mercury is slipping downwards, Dubai’s outdoor venues come into their own. 360 at Jumeirah Beach (00 971 4 348 0000; jumeirah.com) is always popular, not least for the shisha (water pipe) lounges, where you can kick back and gaze at the stars. Dubai’s most popular beach bar, Barasti on Al-Soufah Road, is throbbing again with the city’s ex-pat crowd: Ibiza meets Blackpool, with added Middle Eastern spice.
A lazy Sunday…
There are miles of pristine coastline along the Gulf, much of it protected to stop the environmental damage caused by overconstruction. Dugongs and turtles breed in the area. One of the best ways to explore is to hire a boat. It doesn’t have to be an expensive yacht – instead negotiate a price with a local owner and arrange a day-long visit to some shoreline away from Dubai city. Numbers for boats for hire can be found in local listings magazines, or take a stroll along the creek waterfront, find a boat owner and strike a deal.
Don’t leave without…
A long lingering look at Dubai from aboard an abra (water taxi). Jump on one of these at the abra station along the creek from either the Bur Dubai or the Deira side; the ride costs less than 25p so try for a longer route and take a trip around dusk for a beautiful sunset. Dubai started life as a tiny pearl-diving village, and although that heritage has been all but lost, an abra ride with the locals is the nearest connection with that not-so-distant past.
